Sunday, June 9, 2013

Oman- Part 1: Buses, Sweat, and Nature


Hey everyone!

 I hope you all are doing well and that you’ve had a great week full of nice weather and good friends. I’m dedicating the next two posts to my trip to Oman; since there really was no way I could ever condense it into one. Depending on how succinct I am, it may turn into three posts, just a warning.

We had planned to go to Oman for a while, and decided that this weekend was perfect because it fit two windows- it allowed us to exit within the limits of our UAE tourist visas and renew them, and school-wise we were all off for three days because of a national holiday on Thursday. Oddly enough, we discovered that Saturday was a national holiday in Oman, so we were apparently on the holiday circuit.

Bleary eyed, we woke up and set out before 6 a.m. on Thursday morning. Knowing that we had a long day ahead of us, we plodded to the nearest metro stop and took the long ride to the other side of Dubai. After we got off, we went to find the bus station. A few members of our group had been there before, but the early morning had muddied our memories, and after ten minutes of wandering around we finally resigned ourselves to the fact that we couldn’t find the station. As a result, we grabbed a cab and made it there right before we were supposed to leave…or so we thought. To our dismay, the bus driver didn’t let us on because we did not arrive at the requested half hour before the departure. Fortunately, there was another bus company down the street that had a bus that was about to leave, so we sprinted off and the driver mercifully let us on, so we found seats and plopped down for the ride. Thankfully, we had averted disaster, though the trip had not exactly gotten off to a promising start.

After about an hour and a half, we reached the Omani border. We received our exit stamps on the UAE side, and after crossing into Oman we had our bags searched. Then, we headed into a large building to attain our Omani tourist visas. What greeted us inside was the exact sight we did not want to see- the building was packed full of people in long, snaking lines that completely filled the rotunda. Worse, it appeared that there was little to no movement. Resigned to the fact that we were going to be held up, we grudgingly took our places at the back of the line and started the waiting game. We soon discovered that the air conditioning was no match for the massive throng of humanity that occupied the room, and sweat soon covered our bodies and made us look like we all just taken a dip in the Persian Gulf. After moving fifteen feet in one hour, there was not much of a bright side to look upon, for cracking flat jokes about the wait could not stave off the insanity that was beginning to encroach upon our minds.



Four hours, lots of sweat, and very sore legs from standing later, we finally secured our visas. It became abundantly clear to us that the day that we thought was going to be used to explore Muscat was going to be taken up just by the trip. Racing towards our destination, the long bus ride did treat us to some spectacular views. Oman’s interior is filled with jagged saw-tooth mountains that are a deep hue of red, and have peaks pointed and sharp like a pencil’s tip.  After winding through these mountains for a few hours, the scenery began to slowly transform to a flatter landscape that was overshadowed by the mountains in the distance. Small towns began to appear, and the dirt and sand began to give way to various types of oasis-like foliage. These large green expanses contrasted with the red mountains in the distance and created a beautiful sight. Gated compounds encased large and flush gardens, which provided a myriad of different fruits. Storefronts ranging from sweet shops to tire garages lined the road, and it became clear that we were nearing the coast and in turn, the Omani capital of Muscat.



It was hard to tell where we entered the city and where we disembarked due to the darkness, but it was evident that Muscat was nestled in between towering mountains and sprawled out until it reached the coast. The air was thick and humid, but was a welcome change from the recycled bus air we were subjected to for a number of hours. After haggling a cab price (the cabs in Oman have no meters), we finally checked into our hotel, which was simple but cozy. Most importantly, it had air conditioning and fit a college student’s budget! Our room had a little balcony where we could step out onto and survey our surroundings, which was filled with ivory colored houses and dominated by the local mosque. The mountainous backdrop provided for a dramatic scene, and our little veranda quickly became our favorite spot to lean back and relax. We found a local restaurant down the street, and hungrily vacuumed up shwarma’s and fresh pressed juices. By this time, we had been traveling for around fifteen hours straight, and could barely make it back to our rooms in time before we collapsed into an exhausted sleep.



Friday morning finally saw our luck beginning to change- we found a great guy around our age that agreed to take us around in his SUV to three famous nature sites in Oman, and later he also ended up taking us into Muscat that night. After forcing down some early morning breakfast and instant coffee, we set off into the mountains to our first destination- Wadi Dayqah. We slowly gained altitude and gazed at the cut mountains that were dotted by little green trees like dark freckles upon the red background. Other than those shrubs, the rocky mountains were devoid of anything living, giving them a haunting appearance; as if some unforeseen force had stripped the slopes of life, only allowing the smallest and sturdiest of living forms left untouched. We pulled into an elevated parking lot, and got out to gaze at the environment around us. Wadi Dayqah is a valley that is filled to the brim with deep, cobalt blue water that is stopped by a large dam at the mouth of the valley. On one side of the walkway was the vast lake, an endless expanse of water that seemed out of place with the dry and barren mountains that served as its container. On the other side was the steep, concrete dam that spewed forth a controlled amount of water into a cascading deluge of water that landed into the mouth of the valley.



The spewing water and the sunlight combined to produce a stunning rainbow that arched over top the valley, providing a scene worthy of a postcard. The water trickled into the flatlands, giving the necessary ingredients for a large oasis of greenery and palm trees. On the banks of the dam-made stream was a small town filled with whitewashed houses that mingled with the tall palms of the oasis. After admiring for a little while longer, we piled back into the car and headed to our next destination. Despite the excessive heat, our host-turned-guide offered us traditional Omani coffee, which I gratefully accepted. Though it tasted much different than your standard Starbucks blend, it was still wonderful; with a combination of bitter and floral notes blending together to create a coffee experience that I had never before encountered but nonetheless enjoyed.



After about a half hour of driving, we entered into a flatland that had more plants, but these were not the deep green plants of an oasis, rather they were filled with savannah like foliage. Singular trees stood alone, and date palms with yellow fronds towered over the all of the plants. We got out and walked into the park. At first, I wasn’t entirely sure what we were supposed to be seeing. Don’t get me wrong, the scenery was pretty with the grasslands and the ocean in the background, but if that’s all there was, I didn’t really think it was going to be worth wilting under the merciless Middle Eastern sun. My fears were soon proved wrong as we walked up to what I at first thought was just a big hole in the ground. As I peered curiously over the side, I was blown away at what I saw.



As if a large meteorite had crashed into earth, the ground had been opened up into a perfect circle, and was a few stories deep. The inside of the cavity was filled with translucent blue water, and the hue changed as it got closer to the edge where it turned a deep navy. Steep stairs led down to the floor, where an island of land stood lonely amongst the surrounding water. After climbing down, it was amazing to spin around inside the massive cavity and look at the high walls and breathtaking water. After going to the waters edge, it became clear that the water became infinitely deep closer to the walls, and eventually led to a vast network of underwater caves. Little fish inhabited it, and treated us to a spa like experience- if you put your feet in the water they would come and nibble all of the dead skin off your feet! I had only ever seen something like this place in National Geographic magazines, and to be honest I never though I would get to see them. But there I was, looking down into the depths of water that was sliced through by beams of sunlight, and looking up at the vertical walls of tan rock that formed a perfect circle.



After climbing out, we walked around and admired the tall date palms, and then herded into our SUV to make the trip to our last site- Wadi Shab.

This marks the end of the first half of my Oman blog post- hope you enjoyed! I’ll post the second half in a few days- maybe it will add some suspense to my mainly informative narrative. Many thanks and even more love.

Andrew. 






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